Sitting on the train waiting for that surge of brakes that occaisionally appears to signal we’re off again, thoughts meander back to watching black kites swooping against the glow of the setting sun on a Pune rooftop bar. The train now very tentativly drifts…movement at last. As train journeys go this is a long one but a comfortable one and if it ‘Expressed’ it’s way to Goa as it’s name implied then another very efficient Indian Railway journey, which later proved to be an extremely optomistic view. I know we will get there at some point but I was never very good at ‘waiting for Godot’
‘Don’t eat anything raw. Only drink bottled water and check the top seal is intact before drinking. Beware the spicy food. Always carry toilet paper …’ by the time you’ve read the ‘Survival Guide’ you might as well stay at home.
I began tentively with dhal fry and plain chapati. We worked out that the fry bit means you fry the spices (cumin, garam masala, corriander, cumin seeds, chilli, ginger and so much more) before adding lentils and chickpeas soaked overnight and then mashed. It’s a lovely saffron/turmeric colour with fenugreek leaves and has the flavour of a gently spiced lentil soup. Consistency, spice and colour varies from time to time but, scooped up rather messily with fresh chapati, just perfect for the novice.
While still sticking to vegitarian, I became bolder…Malai Kofta…it was the word ‘mild’ on the menu, that led me to it, a soft slightly mushy dumpling of paneer (a cream/cottage cheese) and herbs and spices in a mild cream and tomato sauce together with more chapati scooping.
I was getting there!
Bolder still…chicken tikka masala, sword fish tikka, fish curry, chicken tikka, nan (either garlic, butter or just beautifully plain) with crunchy edges…and now, after almost two months, when given the choice ‘spicy or non spicy’ I go ‘mild spicy.
