As we waited in the station, we suddenly realised we had turned to normal again. No more breathlessness, no more dizzines. It had gone as suddenly as it had appeared when we disembarked in Cusco.
We had chosen Cusco to acclimatise for our trip to Machu Picchu, but it turns out that really, you’d be better to acclimatise in Machu Picchu for a trip to Cusco. Regardless of this absurdity, here we were in the station at Ollantaytambo with a new lease of life but no useful outlet for it.
At last, it was time to board our train to the final destination - Machu Picchu.
The train from Ollantaytambo doesn’t really go to Machu Picchu, but we knew that. Instead you get off at Aguas Calientes.
Filled with the new energy that our decent from 3300m to close to just 2000m had given us, there was no need for the normal afternoon ‘wee lie doon’. There was also no need to find a taxi in this little town not more than 700m long and 400m wide. Gringo Bill’s was within easy walking distance of the station. Bags dumped and we set out to explore.
Before Machu Picchu, this small triangle of land measuring around 0.14 km² was home to three or four families of farmers. Today it is home to some 6000 inhabitants, restaurants, hotels and gift shops. This little walled city already hugs the river and the 2000 ft walls of sheer granite that surround it on all sides. The river does a full u-turn here, so you cannot even really see the entrance or exit which gives the impression it is completely surrounded by these sheer cliffs.
The town itself has the feel and look of an old goldrush town. Ramshackle buildings try to outreach each of their neighbours as the whole town cascades steeply down the short 700m of the Urubamba River that it hugs. Even so, they have still managed so squeeze a full sized football park into this area.
Most people either only stay for one day, or just pass through on their way to Machu Picchu and back. It is perfectly feasible to do it as a day trip from Cusco. We had decided to stay for thee days. Charmless as the town is, we had a pleasant stay and beautiful walk up the Rio Aguas Calientes to the Cataratas de Aguas Calientes. A thousand butterflies hung and fluttered in the air.
Tomorrow - Machu Picchu.
